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The future of beauty packaging: Five questions to Denis Paccaud, Texen

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Premium Magnificence Information – On March 29, you highlighted the hazards of “announcements” concerning different supplies to plastic. Why this warning?

Denis Paccaud – It’s important to be vigilant in order that the remedy is just not worse than the illness. I imagine it is very important keep a sure stage of objectivity in regards to the options proposed. Certainly, they’ll present some solutions and enhance a number of the adverse points of plastic, however not systematically. I’m referring, for instance, to cellulose derivatives: their properties are very attention-grabbing by way of eco-responsibility and recyclability, however however, they’re delicate to water-based liquids or fatty liquids, similar to oils. They will due to this fact hardly ever keep in touch with the system itself. Which means it’s typically essential to insert a plastic movie between the system and the packaging to restrict undesirable exchanges between the 2 supplies. One other instance is that some biobased supplies have their biodegradability or recyclability decreased and even cancelled out after present process chemical transformation. Even when they had been initially constructed from pure supplies.

Premium Magnificence Information – In your facet, what different supplies are you exploring?

Denis Paccaud – Texen’s Innovation Division has a number of areas of focus, within the medium and long run, but additionally within the brief time period, notably with a view to pre-qualifying supplies proposed by producers.

Relating to the medium and long run, we’re primarily engaged on recycled and biosourced plastic polymers, as a result of it’s the most considerable materials at present. It’s in our curiosity to pick out probably the most related recycled supplies, establish their specificities and learn how to use them and, in fact, reuse them. After all, recycling channels are nonetheless wanted, however this matter is shifting ahead. T.E.O (Transition Ecologique Observatoire) has simply introduced the forthcoming opening of a brand new recycling channel for polystyrene.

We’re additionally specializing in supplies that can be recycled within the close to future and naturally biobased and biodegradable supplies – similar to PLA and PHA – though at present there may be nonetheless a really combined acceptance concerning these supplies. At Texen, we solely suggest a number of of them to our clients. Our ambition is to completely grasp them and minimise all of the dangers associated to using these “new” supplies earlier than integrating them into our catalogue and manufacturing strains. One other space we’re engaged on is our capability to separate the totally different packaging supplies and elements and to completely give attention to the design of single-material options.

Premium Magnificence Information – Lots of firms have set themselves targets by way of use of recycled supplies and recyclability of their packaging. We have now the sensation that that is the topic on which we’re making probably the most progress.

Denis Paccaud – Producers now have an ideal command of learn how to produce plastic supplies and rework them. However the business has not but reached maturity in regards to the recycling chain and should proceed to innovate and optimise the processes for the gathering, sorting and recycling of supplies. The local weather disaster and the rising consciousness of our clients are driving us to bear in mind new parameters within the growth of merchandise, notably to facilitate their recycling. We’re within the midst of an actual transition course of, additionally pushed by laws with the 2025 and 2030 deadlines.

Immediately in France, 30% of the plastic that may be recycled – primarily PET – is definitely recycled. What’s extra, mechanical recycling is displaying its limits, particularly for beauty makes use of requiring “food grade” certification. This is the reason the business is searching for different strategies similar to chemical recycling, which is definitely extra power consuming, however provides extra prospects, or enzymatic recycling – which appears to be proving its value for the second on some supplies and is much less power consuming.

Premium Magnificence Information – Refills are sometimes introduced as probably the most environment friendly answer to scale back packaging. Texen has been concerned within the manufacturing of refills for Stella McCartney’s model. What’s your tackle this?

Denis Paccaud – With the instance of the Stella McCartney model merchandise, you might be highlighting probably the most profitable options by way of refillable merchandise. Certainly, on this case, the plastic of the refill is minimised whereas use instances are maximised. The refill can be utilized alone or in its pump bottle. And it’s totally recyclable as it’s fabricated from a single-material movie with no aluminium. The carbon footprint and the use evaluation of those merchandise are actually attention-grabbing.

There are different options, much less superior however simply as attention-grabbing, which contain inflexible plastic refills and whose carbon footprint stays largely constructive. Nevertheless, we should make it possible for the refill doesn’t devalue the product’s picture and that the refill course of is just not a chore however a nice gesture. Our mission is, on the one hand, to supply the person with a snug and even enjoyable manner of refilling and, on the opposite, to supply refillable merchandise with an extended life span, in order to not tire or disappoint the patron. It is a actual problem.

So sure, refillable merchandise is usually a answer for decreasing packaging. It’s of curiosity to our clients, primarily luxurious or premium manufacturers as a result of certainly one of its limits is clearly its price.

Premium Magnificence Information – New textures are rising at present (solids, anhydrous, powders), with new points by way of packaging. What’s the state of innovation on this topic?

Denis Paccaud – We’re questioning our shoppers about these new formulations and have launched brainstorming periods and idea research. There may be definitely a manner ahead for powders, which have to be “watered down” for use. As well as, you could make it possible for the combination is well-dosed and homogeneous, in any other case, the preparation can be too liquid or too thick. A routine that in my view requires a container particularly designed for a easy and fast preparation gesture on the danger of shedding the patron.

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